Overview
Belém
Cities have history and this one takes visitors back to when the world was being discovered. Tour this area that was a focal point for explorers and distant riches.
Lisbon’s Belém district takes discovery to a contemporary level with so many sites and structures to visit, defining the city as having been a gateway for precious goods from distant lands. Hop on trams that snake through this district that means Bethlehem in Portuguese, or walk the black and white tiled sidewalks known as calçadas.
Lisbon’s history revolves around the ocean and its wide estuary, the Tagus River, which runs by Belém. Wander along the riverfront with the 25th of April Bridge, a smaller version of San Francisco’s Golden Gate Bridge, in the distance and you will unavoidably come across a towering marble monument dedicated to Portugal’s seafaring importance. The Padrão Descobrimentos (Discoveries Monument) shows the principal figure Infante Dom Henrique, also known as Henry the Navigator of the country’s Age of Discovery leading notable people towards the ocean and distant shores.
Walk beyond the monument until you see what looks like a small castle on the river’s shore. The Torre de Belém (Belém Tower) was a fortification to defend the area from attacks by sea and its location was originally in the middle of the river, but tides have gradually changed the configuration of the river and the tower is now by the shore.
Leave the waterfront and go inland to a large park, the Jardim da Praça do Imperio (Imperial Square Garden), with a magnificent fountain at its center where it’s definitely worthwhile to sit and admire the surroundings. Look across the park at the sprawling Mosteiro dos Jerónimos, a 16th century monastery that has become one of the city’s most visited sites and was erected with funds from the lucrative spice industry.
Diagonally across from the monastery on another side of the park is the El Centro Cultural de Belém that houses the Coleção Museu Berardo, one of Lisbon’s finest museums with free admittance. Travel beyond this popular area towards the downtown and look for the large soft pink building on the left surrounded by trees, Belém Palace, the residence of the country’s presidents.
In keeping with things presidential, a short distance farther is the Museo Nacional dos Coches (National Museum of Coaches) with a collection of carriages that have been used by European royalty and various popes. Try Portugal’s national pastry, the pastel de nata, where it was first made at the beautifully tiled Pastéis de Belem bakery. Lineups can be long but the surroundings and baked goods are worth the wait.
A visit to Lisbon would not be complete without a trip to Belém. A tram is the preferred method of entering and leaving the district but pickpockets in this area are somehow notorious on this mode of transport. An alternative method is the bus that is often less crowded and not as worrisome.
Sources:
http://www.golisbon.com/sight-seeing/belem.html
http://lisbon-portugal-guide.com/belem-lisbon/belem-district-lisbon.html
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Belém Tower
This city constructed a fortification in the middle of a waterway to defend its riches. Find out how this structure is now accessible from shore.
Look at it and you would think Lisbon’s Belém Tower has always been there, but the ornate fortification was originally situated midstream to fight off any hostile craft that came up the Tagus River. Over time, the current has reconfigured the river to place the tower by the shore.
Built between 1514 and 1520, it has a storybook charm that can be credited to its heavy influence of Moorish design. Discern how the structure incorporates the two features of a medieval tower and a military fortification.
Enter the building on the gangway that connects it to shore and notice the carved rhinoceros at the base of the right-hand turret, believed to represent a live specimen that was sent as a gift to Lisbon by an Indian sultan. Cross the drawbridge to be in the bulwark with 17 cannons pointing out to the river. Their strategic placement allowed cannon balls to skip across the water to extend their distance. Below this floor was where the dungeons were located.
Climb the staircase to the first terrace, or bulwark terrace, to see six turrets with lookout windows and an opening in the middle looking down on the floor below. Admire the river-facing exterior from this terrace as it has the most detail to impress seafaring crews as they approached Lisbon.
Go up another staircase to the Governor’s Room that, despite its name, was not where governors stayed, but instead at a palace nearby. Notice the octagonal structure that collected rainwater stored in a tank below. In this room is access to turrets and another staircase leading to the top of the building.
Ascend to the King’s Room with its balcony that has a commanding view of the river, while the room’s other walls have Venetian style balcony windows. The remaining rooms are the Audience Room and Chapel and you will notice holes in balcony floors that allowed heavy objects to be dropped on the heads of attackers.
Look straight across the river when you’re on the Tower Terrace at the top to see another fortification on the far shore. Known as St. Sebastian’s Tower and in conjunction with Belém Tower, attacking warships didn’t stand a chance.
Sources:
http://www.torrebelem.gov.pt/en/index.php?s=white&pid=168
http://lisbon-portugal-guide.com/belem-lisbon/torre-de-belém-belem-tower-lisbon.html
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Padrão dos Descobrimentos
Ocean cities often have a monument of their seafaring history and this one clearly announces its importance. Visit this monolith commemorating famous explorers.
Lisbon’s Padrão dos Descobrimentos (Monument to the Discoveries) points out over the Tagus River that flows into the Atlantic Ocean from where many sailing vessels had ventured to explore unchartered waters and discover new lands. View this concrete and limestone monument that provides a who’s who of maritime figures recognized as being Portugal’s leading individuals for introducing European customs and trade to distant regions.
Shaped like the bow of a vessel with billowing sails above, many historic individuals are immortalized by sculptor Leopoldo de Almeida who crafted his work for the 1940 Portuguese World Exhibition to celebrate Portugal’s beginning and its independence from Spain. The original monument was situated at the nearby Praça do Imperio (Imperial Square) and reconstructed by the river 20 years later to commemorate the 500th anniversary of the death of Prince Henry the Navigator, the driving force behind Portugal’s explorations and conquests. Look at the first figure on the bow of the monument holding an exploration vessel, known as a caravel, to see a likeness of Henry the Navigator.
Count the statues to arrive at 32 figures of key people who were instrumental during Portugal’s Age of Discovery and notice the detail in their faces. Included among the explorers are cartographers, crusaders, chroniclers, missionaries and artists. The only female is Henry the Navigator’s mother, Queen Philippa of Lancaster.
Look down before going inside to see a stylized compass that was a gift from South Africa charting Portuguese expeditions, which culminated in an empire that spanned three continents. Enter the monument to discover exhibits on Lisbon’s history and take the elevator and a flight of steps to the top of the 183.7-foot (56 meter) tall structure for incredible panoramic views overlooking the river, historic Belém district and the other shore.
Tour the inside of Padrão dos Descobrimentos every day except Monday when many visitor sites in Lisbon are closed. An entrance fee is required. Access the monument safely by going under the busy road from the gardens in front of the monastery.
Sources:
http://lisbon-portugal-guide.com/lisbon-portugal-history/1940-Portuguese-World-Exhibition.html
https://www.visitlisboa.com/see-do/sightseeing-activities/museums-monuments/monument-to-discoveries
http://www.padraodosdescobrimentos.pt/en/monument-to-the-discoveries/
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Ascensor da Glória
To come to this city and not let this little lady outfitted in yellow show you around would be an opportunity missed. Sit back and enjoy the changing scenes.
Her name is Glória and she’s been faithfully going up and down Lisbon’s hills since 1885. Some cities have tramcars that are synonymous with metropolitan areas, and the Ascensor da Glória (Gloria’s Elevator) has earned her status with the best of them. Ride this tramcar, or more correctly funicular, to be introduced to this hilly city’s historical sites and places of interest.
Catch a ride on what is also known as the Elevador da Glória anywhere along its route of narrow streets from Restauradores Square to the Bairro Alto district in the old section of town. Get off at the top of the street Rua San Pedro de Alcántara for one of the best views of the city, the Tagus River and the far shore. Lisbon is like Rome inasmuch both cities are built on seven hills, so funiculars like Glória are truly appreciated in getting from one area to another.
There are other vintage cable cars in the city including the Elevador do Lavra and the Elevador da Bica that even if they may not be as iconic as Glória, are still interesting and fun to ride. Hop on board Lavra that is Lisbon’s oldest with service that started in 1884 and connects streets Câmara Pastana and Largo da Anunciada to important Avenida da Liberdade. Bica serves the Bairro Alto district and is regarded a close second to Glória for the views it provides.
Lisbon is a haven for classic tramcars that are an important component of the public transportation system. All trams display the letter E, which stands for electrico (electric) and they climb slight inclines, unlike modern tramcars. Experience how they navigate narrow places which is the principal reason why these 1930 vintage trams, upgraded in the 1990s, are still in service in a city known to have the world’s steepest tram tracks.
Purchase your ticket from Ascensor da Glória’s driver, although it’s probably less hectic to buy a 24-hour pass at a metro (subway) station that allows passage on any tram or funicular. Enjoy this unique way of seeing Lisbon by riding the rails.
Sources:
https://www.city-discovery.com/lisbon/tour.php?id=11617
http://lisbon-portugal-guide.com/lisbon-transport/lisbon-tram-guide.html
http://lisbon-portugal-guide.com/Baixa-Lisbon/Elevador-Santa-Justa-Lisbon-elevator-lift-guide.html
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Convento do Carmo & Museo Arqueológico
Ruins from an earthquake are often torn down, but this city has turned them into an attraction. Tour this site to sense the grandeur of a gothic masterpiece.
The 1755 earthquake caused massive destruction and numerous fatalities in Lisbon. A staggering death toll of an estimated 90,000 people makes the natural disaster one of the worst in history. The city was left in ruins after the estimated 8.5 to 9.0 magnitude earthquake and the resulting tsunami and fires, but a masterpiece remained standing. Visit the 14th century Convento do Carmo (Carmo Convent) to marvel at this Gothic roofless structure that defiantly stayed upright.
Tragically the earthquake occurred on All Saints Day morning when citizens were gathering in the massive church, Lisbon’s largest at the time. The fact that it wasn’t totally destroyed was incredible for the deeply religious surviving citizens when other churches were reduced to rubble and ash. Enter the church to see its skeletal remains that indicate its majestic history.
Read the engraved stone at the entrance from Pope Clement VII who puts a blessing on visitors by saying “any faithful Christian” will be granted 40 days of indulgence. At the opposite end, where the main altar was located, is a small museum, the Museo Arqueológico do Carmo (Carmo Archaeological Museum), that contains tombs with one belonging to King Ferdinand I.
In the collection of artifacts are Visigoth pieces, a sculpture of the Virgin Mary made from jasper and quirky items like shrunken heads and South American mummies. Notice the absence of any books from this period as the majority of manuscripts burned during the disaster.
Finish your visit to the Convento do Carmo and the Museo Arqueológico at one of the outdoor cafés in the picturesque square in front of the church to be able to admire at leisure this remnant of a disastrous past. Located in the city center’s Chiado district, an entrance fee is required although it’s closed on Sundays.
Sources:
http://www.golisbon.com/sight-seeing/carmo-church.html
https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/carmo-convent-ruins
http://lisbon-portugal-guide.com/Baixa-Lisbon/igreja-carmo-church-lisbon.html
http://www.drgeorgepc.com/Tsunami1755Lisbon.html
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Fado Museum
This city is the birthplace for a style of music that’s dramatic and heartfelt. Learn why it was banned and its current popularity among its citizens and worldwide.
Fado is a style of music that is either adored or shunned, but if a taste for it is acquired one can be hooked. Discover more about this traditional Portuguese music at Lisbon’s Fado Museum (Museu do Fado) and learn about songs that tell of the country’s history in a contemplative, soul-stirring manner. Unless Portuguese is understood the storyline of any song will probably be missed, but it’s obvious the topic is something very passionate and spirited.
Close your eyes when listening to Fado to feel the drama and forlorn state of the singer, or fadista, even if the meaning is lost. Musical accompaniment is traditionally with string instruments and songs are about the hard realities of life and despair, although hope that situations could improve is sometimes included.
The style evolved in the 1820s in areas of the city frequented by sailors for their prostitutes and this form of musical expression became very popular in the early 1900s. However, Fado was censored in 1926 in an attempt to change the type of entertainment in Lisbon, but radio prevented its extinction. Imagine the protest from citizens to any attempt of keeping their beloved Fado from being the music of their city.
Discover at the museum how one fadista single-handedly brought this genre of music to global recognition until her death in 1999. Amália Rodrigues, known as the Queen of Fado, made this music stand out as an art form and had it evolve into its contemporary format that can include piano, violin and accordion. It may also explain why most fadistas in Lisbon are women.
Arrange a special visit to the Fado Museum’s documentation center for deeper research, or if available, attend an intimate show in its small auditorium. Shop in the museum’s store for a wide-ranging assortment of Fado items. Located in the Alfama district, the museum is closed Mondays and an admittance fee is required.
Sources:
http://www.golisbon.com/sight-seeing/fado-museum.html
https://portugal.com/portuguese-music/fado-seoul-portuguese-music
http://www.museudofado.pt/gca/index.php?id=13
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Lisboa Story Centre
An introduction to a city and its history can be told through visual displays and audio description. Learn about this city through an interactive look into its past.
Two stylized ravens welcome visitors at the door of the Lisboa Story Centre. The ravens are the city’s mascots that legend says accompanied the remains of patron Saint Vincent on a sea voyage back to Lisbon. Enter the interpretive historical showcase to be equipped with an audio guide that tells the progression of events for Europe’s westernmost city.
Begin with early settlers on a horse-filled Lisbon street conducting business and advance to the Age of Discovery when the city was a center point for sea-faring missions in discovering parts of the world and new trade routes. Portugal was in a race to colonize areas before England and France laid claim to them.
The spice trade was a significant source of the city’s income that provided for the construction of important buildings. View the sprawling Mosteiro dos Jerónimos (Jerónimos Monastery) for an example of a structure that was partially funded from the riches of this lucrative commercial period.
At the height of this period that was full of conquests, a massive earthquake followed by a tsunami and fires almost destroyed the city killing tens of thousands of its inhabitants. Experience the horror on that fateful November day in 1755 in the center’s small theatre where a dramatic film shows buildings toppling and the sea swallowing up anything in its path. Anything left standing was quickly engulfed in flames as aftershocks toppled lit candles.
Discover the rapid rebuilding of the city to make its buildings more resistant to earthquakes under the direction of the Marquis of Pombal. Browse in the souvenir shop for mementos of your recent voyage through 20 centuries of Lisbon’s past.
The Lisboa Story Centre is open everyday with an admission fee being charged. Find it on the Terreiro do Paço square, near the river in the Baixa district.
Sources:
https://www.inspirock.com/portugal/lisbon/lisboa-story-centre-a3149302837
http://www.portugaldailyview.com/whats-new/musuems-lisbons-story-teller-takes-you-on-a-ride
http://www.crwflags.com/fotw/flags/pt-lsb.html
http://www.sacred-destinations.com/portugal/lisbon-jeronimos-monastery
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Miradouro de Santa Luzia
Elevated areas in cities are often synonymous with being romantic places. Discover this city’s raised area with its mesmerizing views.
The Miradouro de Santa Luzia (Saint Lucia’s Gazebo) in Lisbon’s Alfama district is possibly one of the best places to be in the city on a sunny day, particularly a hot one. Take in the view as breezes come over the Tagus River and rush up to this vantage point. Shady trellises and bougainvillea shaped into tree forms provide protection from intense sunlight.
The red tiled roofs of the old downtown area below, the blue river meeting the Atlantic Ocean and any visiting cruise ships make a romantic setting, while a café is perfectly situated to enjoy a leisurely drink or a snack. Performing street musicians and artists selling their work often frequent this area. Identify historical places such as the large white church of Santo Estêvão (Saint Stephen), the dome of the National Pantheon and the onion shaped spires of São Miguel (Saint Michael) church.
Walk over to the nearby church of the same name as the miradouro to view the outside pictorial tiles that depict the city’s Praça do Comerçio (Commerce Square) before the 1755 earthquake, while another assemblage of tiles shows crusaders storming the Castelo de São Jorge (Saint George Castle) in 1147. Such tiles, known as azulejos portugueses, are ubiquitous throughout the country and date back to the Moorish period but became assimilated into Portuguese culture.
Make a little further trek up the hill to see the commandeering 11th century Moorish castle, Castelo de São Jorge, that would later have a palace built within its walls for Portuguese royalty. The earthquake heavily damaged the castle, but restoration efforts in the 1930s repaired its crumbling walls. Inside the walls are well-maintained gardens and the palace is now a museum and restaurant.
Return to the miradouro to dip your tired feet into a wading pool located on the lower terrace. Although not as open as the higher terrace, views are still magnificent. The Miradouro de Santa Luzia is a great family spot to while away some time together and if you can fit in a sunset you won’t be disappointed.
Sources:
http://www.golisbon.com/sight-seeing/santa-luzia.html
http://www.aviewoncities.com/lisbon/miradourodesantaluzia.htm